I would have never known I had been to El Bolsón twice were it not for the brewery. The first time was on a bus from Puerto Varas in the Argentine section down to Punta Arenas before our TDP trek. It seemed like the hundred other towns we passed through on our way South until we passed a massive sign advertising beer and camping; tacky, kind of like a micro South of the Border. And then we were gone and heading on to bigger things. After the month long sprint of the “Hike Everything!” mentality, we passed the massive sign again on our way back into town, this time for some proper R&R, and maybe a little more hiking. The bus dropped us off a block away from the Tourism office. After a quick choripan, we found the one hourly bus that runs from town towards our hostel/ relaxation station.
 

After getting off a stop early and realizing how warm it was, we get to La Casona de Odile, checked in, and settled down. La Casona de Odile was a haven. A nice B&B style setting with an incredible back yard, complete with hammocks, a lavender farm, massive garden, and the typical canal based Argentine irrigation (manicured here a little more for the ambiance and babbling-brook-effect, but also functional for the lavender and garden when needed).

After a quick walk around the property, Holly and I found our respective hammocks and read. After an exhausting day of relaxing and reading, we hit the hay. The next day was not too much more exciting except we decided to head into town and check out the artisanal fair, where I bought a sweet knife, we drank spicy beer, and Holly got a migraine. After a little rest in the park, Holly was feeling good enough to walk around, so we picked up food to cook back at the hostel and played it pretty low for the rest of the night.

The following day, we hiked El Dedo Gordo. The hike was really nice. The trail reminded me of the trail we thought was a game trail back in El Chalten, but this was actually the proper trail. It started off winding through farm lands, then headed up through a variety of scenes, mostly old growth deciduous and pleasantly dank. We got peaked out at an abandoned and unloved refugio, found the “mirador” and were disappointed. Turns out large hills and mounts done make good windows. Our view was obscured by a hill of slightly less stature. It was our own fault though. Holly still wasn’t feeling 100% and we were both tired and kind of grumpy. We walked back down a little defeated and tired. I had a beer though and Holly ate some candy while we waited for a taxi to take us back to the hostel, so that was good. We arrived back in high enough spirits, glad to be back “home” and we both slept like people who needed sleep. Not a bad day, but the payoff was a little disappointing. The hike was 8/10, the view good but we had been spoiled.

I still wasn’t quite sold on the place. The final day after breakfast and more reading, we went into town to get bus tickets up to San Rafael where we ran into an old friend. While buying tickets, I thought I recognized the external occipital protuberance of a friend, so I said, “Is that a Bobby Stone?” which was answered by, “Awww who the hell knows me here!?” A good laugh was had by all as we caught up. We walked with Bobby and his lady friend to the super market so they could buy food for their upcoming hike around the area and invited them to join us for beers at the brewery. Holly and I continued on to the brewery where we bought a delightful blonde ale and a raspberry ale. Usually I am very opposed to things like raspberry beers, but it was hot and it sounded good. We was not disappointed. We picked up a couple of beers to go, mostly the spicy ají beers as gifts for our capsaicin-loving friends we were meeting in Mendoza. It was while we were sitting at this massive camping park/ cerveceria thing that it all clicked. El Bolsón is a place to go when you have no time limits. It’s a place you want to get to know. All of the hikes are based right around town and there are plenty of them. The scenery is gorgeous and the people are laid back and insanely friendly. It is warm during the day and cool at night and it seems like everyone is a tradesman. Most restaurants and hostels make their own beer and I wouldn’t be surprised to find most very good. The place where we stayed was in the middle of its own brewery expansion, building a larger structure to house their larger setup. When it clicked, I didn’t want to leave. I suddenly wasn’t satisfied with the time I spent there and was upset we had to leave, but I offered to volunteer at the hostel if they ever needed it because it was just that kind of place. We might even hear from them sometime in the future and maybe we will return, but either way El Bolsón will be one of my favorite places and one place I will return to one day, either as a volunteer, backpacker,resident, or retiree because it is just that cool. Go for the beer, stay for the way of life.